Author Topic: Replacing pads and corks  (Read 216 times)

Offline Dibbs

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 58
    • View Profile
Re: Replacing pads and corks
« Reply #15 on: September 27, 2018, 05:26:23 AM »

Offline shmuelyosef

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 20
    • View Profile
Re: Replacing pads and corks
« Reply #16 on: September 27, 2018, 06:05:20 PM »
Like Iíve mentioned before, LED string lights are little diodes on a a wire, thin enough to pass through even the smallest tone holes (except register key). The string allows the diode to be angled to literally touch the pad, ferreting out every possible leak source.
I see now...isn't that tedious to reposition the light for each pad? Looks real bright, though I use the rope lights for saxophone, but even on saxes I fine tune with feeler paper. I guess we all just settle into a pattern that works and then we "fear change", as Garth asserted
Clarinet: Selmer Centered Tone (1 ea 6-ring and 7-ring), Selmer Series 9, Yamaha Custom CS 853, Leblanc Vito V40, B&H 1-10, Leblanc VSP, plus the middle school for sale list (all fully overhauled)
BC: Yamaha 221mkii
Piano: Mason & Hamlin Model A, Fender Rhodes Stage 73 Mk I, Nord Electro
Many saxes

Offline DaveLeBlanc

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2773
  • Clarinet-ing since 2012
    • View Profile
    • Watson Musical
Re: Replacing pads and corks
« Reply #17 on: September 28, 2018, 12:14:54 PM »
Not really tedious. I only do one pad at a time, and repositioning the light takes maybe 3 or 4 seconds.
It seems like using a feeler gauge would take somewhat longer than shining a light, as one has to make several passes from several angles.
Feeler gauge isnít able to detect the small tone hole chips that the light does, so I stick with it.
David Watson of the original The Clarinet Pages

Offline shmuelyosef

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 20
    • View Profile
Re: Replacing pads and corks
« Reply #18 on: October 18, 2018, 01:59:04 PM »
Interesting points...I assume that you cobbled up your single LED by yourself?
Clarinet: Selmer Centered Tone (1 ea 6-ring and 7-ring), Selmer Series 9, Yamaha Custom CS 853, Leblanc Vito V40, B&H 1-10, Leblanc VSP, plus the middle school for sale list (all fully overhauled)
BC: Yamaha 221mkii
Piano: Mason & Hamlin Model A, Fender Rhodes Stage 73 Mk I, Nord Electro
Many saxes

Offline DaveLeBlanc

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2773
  • Clarinet-ing since 2012
    • View Profile
    • Watson Musical
David Watson of the original The Clarinet Pages

Offline TMHeimer

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 8
  • Newbie!
    • View Profile
Re: Replacing pads and corks
« Reply #20 on: January 07, 2019, 09:38:38 PM »
I'll just throw in my 2 cents. I heat the pads to remove them and use pad cement (small tube) to put in the new ones.
Every so often I have to re-cork my mouthpiece. I cut the cork to size and glue it on, using rubber band(s) to hold it until the glue dries. I usually use the old "Duco Cement" glue (hard to find these days). Then I use a small file to manually shave the cork so it fits in the barrel properly. It does take a while and you don't want to touch the file to the wood.
The Most Advanced Clarinet Book
tomheimer.ampbk.com/
austinmacauley.com