Buffet S/N, any value?

[EasyG]

I recently gambled on a Buffet clarinet.  Although I bought the clarinet - I lost in what I thought it was.

What I thought was an 8 in the serial number turned out being an S.  So, the actual S/N is 952S1.  This sequence doesn't match the S/N charts.  1903 doesn't have a number after the S. 1926 starts with 1S.  Based on a different post on this site, I would guess this to be a 1926.  No L.P. or other markings that I could find.  No S/N on the Upper joint.

Assuming a 1926, is there any value in this? 
My assumption is 'NO'.  Especially since this clarinet has 3 hairline cracks in the upper, 1 in the lower, and the Bell is heavily cracked.

I'll probably use this one to teach myself how to repair cracks, I suppose.

[ghostler]

Sorry to hear you ran into a case of missed identification. I really don't know much about the Buffets, aside from the R13 that I was issued with the 264th Army Band, Honolulu, Hawaii in the early 1970's.

Just like you I have been buying student instruments for next to nothing on eBay, clarinets and saxes for donating.

This past May I bought 2,
$80.95 total, a Buffet Prodige ebonite student clarinet. Interestingly, no markings, just the serial number. Was from a reputable music store. The brand new Buffet clarinet case was worth more than the clarinet, which appears to be a rental withdrawn, wear on the keys with some brassing showing through. Needs no servicing.
$36.81 total, a very low mileage almost like new Buffet Evette ebonite clarinet with full gilded markings in a case like new case from a vintage knick-knacks store.

I gather both these are probably Chinese stencils, but figure they are good as Buffet makes sure they are decent.

Haven't tested them yet. Donated an almost like new Selmer CL300 student clarinet needing no servicing, $107 a few weeks ago to a poor family for their daughter who entered junior high this year. Felt good about as a major on-line music store is selling its successor, the CL301 for $1,400.

[Windsong]

A Buffet will always retain some value, as a result of its namesake alone.  Pre R13s have recently generated some value, as has anything with real hand work.  After all, they were good enough for many pros to endorse, long before the R13 debuted, around 1950.   

I don't know what you paid for it, but it sounds like it has had a hard life.  I won't discourage you from learning to repair cracks on it, but be careful, and ask questions and post protos as you need.  Often, if you can get good penetration into the crack, cyanoacrylate will hold it together without need for pins (either threaded, headless steel screws or barbed copper wire).  The finish work is tedious, and made more difficult if the crack runs through a maker's brand.  The generally agreed upon "best filler" is grenadilla dust and cyanoacrylate, layered and bonded to make a really clean, really strong repair.  Thorough saturation into the crack is very important however, and mineral spirits or ether alcohol should be used on a cotton swab to thoroughly eliminate oils or debris that may impede an ideal bond of the wood.

[EasyG]

Thanks Windsong.  I find that encouraging.  I plan to take this one to my local Pro Tech (Stephen Harris) and get his input.

I think that both joints can be saved. 

As far as the bell, I think it is too far gone to repair to a satisfactory level. - It's a V-shaped crack that goes all the way through and has separated.  So, I might look to pick up a bell elsewhere.  But, again, I will see what Mr. Harris recommends.

If I can come out financially even on this adventure, I will be happy.  I would rather restore a clarinet to be enjoyed by others than to have them sit and rot away.

[Windsong]

I have saved two shattered bells (all but destroyed) that were too uncommon to easily find a replacement for, and you have to look really hard to see the damage.  I filled and sanded and sanded some more, and then I stained, buffed and polished.  So, if you have to restore it, it can be done.

On any clarinet that you suspect of having had a hard life, the first thing I recommend doing, before you spend a dime, is to take an internal measurement of the top bore, top and bottom.  Regardless the actual bore, make sure it is uniformly round.  I have done this AFTER a restoration, only to find that bore was noticeably out-of-round at up to a .009" differential, and at that point, just really "case jewelry", because re-boring a clarinet is well above my pay grade.