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Topics - kewald

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All about Clarinets / Improving an old Edgware
« on: February 19, 2022, 05:33:12 PM »
My clarinet, which I've had since 1950, is a Boosey and Hawkes Edgware.  I recently took an online tone improvement class (clarinet mastery).  Now that I'm playing with much better intonation I've realized that this clarinet played flat.  So I made a shorter barrel for it which improved overall intonation greatly.
A few days ago I realized that D4/A5 was playing very sharp.  Today I modified the tone hole to make it smaller, and now those notes play slightly flat.  Big difference!  I'll let it break in some and then may enlarge the hole ever so slightly to bring it up in pitch a little.

All about Clarinets / Feliz Navidad, Y'all
« on: December 23, 2021, 04:22:41 PM »
Here's a video of The Clarinet Transformation Community playing a traditional Canadian carol.



All about Clarinets / Buffet ca. 1888
« on: December 06, 2021, 09:23:01 AM »
I was given a vintage Buffet clarinet that had a broken register key.

It's all now refurbished and plays well.

Since I keep getting memory errors when trying to attach photos, hopefully this link to a video will work.


All about Clarinets / Corona Virus Study of Using Wind instruments
« on: August 08, 2021, 02:02:12 PM »
Saw this posted in the Clarinet Transformation Community.

What science says about reducing wind instruments' coronavirus spread | Science News

Interesting and important.

Dave's music video of the week / Me trying to play Moon River
« on: July 21, 2021, 05:09:20 PM »
Practicing on my McIntyre!

Make and Model lists and research / McIntyre Ecole
« on: July 07, 2021, 11:19:49 AM »
Accidently found this patent page image that shows the names of the McIntyre keys.

All about Clarinets / Extra key - Penzel Muller Artist
« on: July 05, 2021, 03:12:03 PM »
Removing the upper joint keys from a Penzel Muller Artist and noticed another padded key and ring below the A/D ring key.  The extra key shares a shaft with the C#/G# key.  The A/D ring also has an extra padded key on it's shaft.

What are they called, and what do they do?

Tried uploading photos, but keep getting a fatal error as reported yesterday.

Here's a link to the photo. https://1drv.ms/u/s!At_bqJIbTzvzktALGIhutXYDzfJQFw?e=3Gu2wc

And another to the A/D ring.  Notice the adjusting screw on the shaft also.  https://1drv.ms/u/s!At_bqJIbTzvzktAEKQhlHyQr8ttyWQ?e=2Vb33d


All about Clarinets / Mentor
« on: July 04, 2021, 03:35:17 PM »
As you may know, I'm relatively new at refurbishing vintage clarinets.

I think I'm doing an ok job, but could use a second opinion.

Would one of you who do similar work be willing, as a professional courtesy, to critique one of the instruments I've worked on?

I have several listed on my Etsy shop: Etsy.com/shop/KennyWhosKlarinettes.

If you are willing, just view my shop, pick out one to review and send a message with the listing title and your name and shipping address.  I'll deactivate the listing and send the instrument to you with a return label.  Give the instrument a thorough going over, play test, etc. and send me a critique.  Oh, and send back the horn, please!

I'm not looking for an endorsement, just an honest critique.


All about Clarinets / More on mixed joints
« on: July 03, 2021, 04:16:03 PM »
I keep getting a fatal error when posting to the Mixed Joints thread.

Fatal error[/size]: Allowed memory size of 94371840 bytes exhausted (tried to allocate 16128 bytes) in [/size]/home/customer/www/clarinetpages.info/public_html/smf/Sources/Subs-Graphics.php[/size] on line [/size]420
[/size]Hopefully this doesn't fail.

All about Clarinets / Mixed Joints
« on: June 24, 2021, 12:51:43 PM »
No, we're not talking about the smoking kind of joint here!

Working on a clarinet that has no branding.  The bridge keys appear to be Selmer.  The upper joint S/N is411013.  The lower joint is engraved below the socket ring: HTCL 000667.

The mouthpiece is unbranded, plastic, and hand engraved with TMS #7.

The barrel and bell are wood, while the body is hard rubber.  The bell is a Boosey & Hawkes Edgware.

The case is Yamaha with stenciling painted on it and a number stenciled on the end, suggesting that it was a school instrument.

So, I'm guessing the instrument was cobbled together from joints that the students hadn't yet broken.

We'll see how it plays after I've done my work.

Photos later.

All about Clarinets / Why is it not playing the lower Chalumeau?
« on: June 23, 2021, 10:42:21 AM »

I'm refurbishing a Selmer Bundy Bb Clarinet.  Everything plays ok except the lower joint of the Chalumeau register.  B3 and Bb3 play (kinda), but every note lower than that overblows into the Clarion register.

I've checked for pad leaks and re-padded the C#3, B3, Bb3 and Ab3 that have sometimes given me problems such as this.

Any ideas?

I tried to upoload a video of me playing it, but that didn't work.  Here's a link to the video. https://1drv.ms/v/s!At_bqJIbTzvzksx3KBY0WaENs9zq5w


All about Clarinets / Vintage Clarinets on Etsy
« on: May 30, 2021, 12:43:32 PM »
I recently discovered that Etsy allows selling of Vintage items.  Back when I was trying my hand at woodturning, I sold wooden pens, bowls and the like on Etsy.  I like their business model.

Now, I'm starting to list my refurbished clarinets on there just to see what happens.  Most of the current vintage clarinets listed there are probably not playable judging by the price levels, though a few are in the range of $200+.

I haven't been doing any clarinet work for some time simply because I had no luck selling on Reverb and became a bit dis-interested.  Now, I'm back at it.

My Etsy shop is called KennyWhosKlarinettes.  Please take a look in a week or so after I've listed a few more horns and let me know how I might improve my listings.


All about Clarinets / Selmer Signet Special
« on: November 13, 2020, 12:24:12 PM »
I just obtained a Selmer Signet Special Clarinet, SN: 38126 which I shall refurbish.  Any idea of it's date of manufacture? 

This is the first Selmer that I will work on.  Any other information about it's reputation, quality, etc. would be welcome.


All about Clarinets / Repairing holes in the clarinet bodies
« on: August 31, 2020, 11:48:25 AM »
I've been using black rubberized CA glue to repair damaged holes in the body of both wood and hard rubber clarinets.  Here's the process:
  • Remove the post or screw from the body.
  • If the threads in the body are badly damaged, drilling out the hole may be needed.  Use a bit the same diameter as the threads on the post or screw.  Don't drill into the bore!  I use an old time hand cranked drill for better control.
  • Clean out the hole.  I blow out any debris with compressed air and use a small squirt of Acetone to remove any oily residue, especially from Grenadilla and similar hardwoods.  Doesn't hurt hard rubber either since it flashes off very quickly.
  • Clean the post or screw thoroughly.
  • Apply a light coating of petroleum jelly to the threads and any part that will touch the body.  Make it a light, but complete coating.
  • Apply a little black rubberized CA glue to the threads.  Use more if the hole threads are gone.
  • Screw or push the post or screw into the hole. 
  • For a post, carefully position it to line up correctly.  I reinstall the key to be sure, then tape the post into place to keep it from coming out.
  • Let it cure overnight.  I know CA cures fast, but with the rubber, I let it cure.
  • Unscrew from the body.  This may be difficult at first, but when it frees up it should screw out cleanly thanks to the resist added by the petroleum jelly.
The retaining screw won't screw out.
Screw out and Acetone in.
Tiny screw & washer.  I cleaned it with Acetone and brushed Vaseline on the threads and underside of the washer.
The glue I used.
the other steps took both hands and I didn't get photos.

Comments and ideas always welcome.

All about Clarinets / Making new key posts
« on: August 06, 2020, 10:17:06 AM »
This is also posted in the Penzel Mueller Timeline Topic.
I purchased a Penzel Mueller Bb Clarinet on Ebay and am in the process of restoring it.  The clarinet is marked "LP" and "B".  SN is 11832, so apparently it was made ca. 1935.
This was one of my earliest restoration attempts and I made mistakes that ruined two of the key posts.  Essentially, the posts must be replaced or remade. Then fitted to the body and drilled, faced and tapped for a new rod.
Background of the opportunity to learn: When I received the instrument, the Hinge Rod was stuck in the posts and was too short, driven in by someone who broke one of the slot tangs.
Mistakes made:  Tried getting it out by grinding a flat on a spare rod to mate it to the remaining slot - used it like a screwdriver but couldn't get it to budge.  Then, clamped the joint in my drill press vice and drilled out the rod, which messed up the hole in the post when the bit drifted.  Don't recall the exact sequence of subsequent events, but I believe I may have gotten the posts out of the body and then in trying to extract the thread end of the rod - broke it off.  Drilled it out messing up the hole again.  Silver soldered some brass rod into the holes, remounted the posts and tried to drill through one into the other.  Of course, I don't have the proper equipment, so those holes didn't work either.  Filled them both with silver solder and set the project aside. 

That was a few months ago.  In the meantime I've learned a better way of extracting impossible rods - cut between the hinge and post at the slot end with a jewelers saw, remove that post from the body and then twist out the other post using the remaining rod.  Then soak the rod & post in penetrating oil and gradually work the rod out.  Reface the cut post and add a little silver solder to the cut hinge then reface that to fit between the posts - ream to fit the new rod.  I learned about this from a nice professional SaxProShop technician when the second problem arose.

I now have a joint mounting jig and cross slide vice for my drill press, so with the judicious use of a very small machinist jack that I will make from a screw, connecting nut and stop nut, I could attempt another drilling.  However, I'm concerned about the strength of the threads being tapped into silver solder/nickel-silver.  And of course, I might mess it up yet again.

Is it worth fixing? If so, any ideas of someone who could tackle the job, or of another approach.


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