The ClarinetPages Forum

Quote from: Windsong on July 27, 2026, 04:22:26 PMI can see you really know what you are talking about.  My father was big into radios and had been part of the Signal Corps in the Army.  He always had a hi-fi system with a reel-to-reel, and myriad radios (tube AM, AM/FM/SW, hybrids, transistors, etc.). 

He wasn't especially handy, mechanically, but he could solder, and trace faults, and he taught me the basics.  Most of his knowledge was wasted on me at the time when I might have paid better attention, but I have recently gotten onto researching and timidly collecting tabletop tube radios.  As long as one can still get tubes, and knows the basics, these old things will literally run forever.  Now, if I can just figure out a good modern replacement for these 1920s 4.5 volt Ever-Ready batteries.

3 standard batteries, AA, AAA, C, D wired in series will give you 4.5 volts.  Which would work depends on the size of the space you have to fill.

If it's a block on your specific ip, you can try rebooting your router. I'd try it this way.
1 - go to whatismyip.com and get your ipv4 address.
2 - power off your router.
3 - unplug your router and press the power button a couple times. (this will clear any residual charge in the router)
4 - plug the router back in and power on.
5 - go to whatismyip.com and see what your ipv4 address is now.  Unless you pay extra for a static public IP address, it should have changed.
6 - try getting to clarinet pages again.

Who is your service provider?  With the way the spammers were hitting the forum for a while, maybe your service provider block clarinet pages.

Instrument Clinic has an education center that is pretty good for beginners.  https://instrumentclinic.com/pages/replacing-clarinet-pads
I downloaded and printed the 2 pictures on this page and taped them to a 1" thick piece of foil back insulation board.  They show the order to remove the keys, and as keys came off, I placed them on the picture and poked the corresponding screws or rod right into the board so they can't roll away.  Clean the keys, get them ready for pads and reinstall in reverse order.  Removes some of the guess work.

Quote from: philpedler on December 31, 2025, 06:20:00 PMThe video didn't come up for me.

Try this one.  Had to get rid of the "reed." before the http
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/JPuvdDTT7-c

Quote from: Windsong on December 10, 2025, 07:45:05 AMWhy are there no photos of Harry Pedler or any of his kin?  I have looked for years and have never been able to find anything.  I just find it rather odd, especially in this day and age, that nothing has surfaced.

Here you go.  https://www.brasshistory.net/Pedler%20History.pdf 

I think the Vito is an alto.  It doesn't have the gooseneck a Vito bass should have.

That's a Chinese clarinet.  If it's like most, the keywork will be soft and bend if you look at it too hard.

Here's another option from the Haynes Clarinet Manual by Stephan Howard.
Clamps to a bench or table.

One by Linton just showed up on Goodwill https://shopgoodwill.com/item/228369032 
I figured it might slip through the cracks and I could get it for a song.  Was I wrong.  2 days in and it jumped to $278.

350 Rocket,
No part numbers on any of the keys and they seem fairly sturdy.  It's currently in line for new pads.  Also came with a plastic Conn Precision mouthpiece with a small 3 in the corner.

One serial number chart I found puts it at 1962 based on 73286.  I have a note on there, not sure now where I got the info, that the F preceding the serial number means it is pitched A442 - A444.  

The body is hard rubber and made by Conn.

Years ago, can't remember where, I read that some used paper to shim the rings on clarinets.  Mostly used on tenon rings, but I did try in on a bell ring.  It's a pain, but it can be done.  I used 1/4" wide strips, work 1 in, then go to opposite side and work 1 in.  Then split the difference between the 2. Got as many in as I could, always working opposite sides, then trimmed the excess with an ex-acto knife.  
Works easiest on rings that are really loose.  If they just spin slightly, there's usually not enough room to slide the paper in.

I'd be pretty worried about that G# key.

I know I've gotten away from the Conn professional by bringing up the Director, but here we go.
The Director I have, is definitely hard rubber body.  The only markings on the body are the serial number on the lower joint.  C10089, which I believe is from 1963.  I was thinking Bakelite for barrel and bell, but could be early plastic. No other number, and only the DI and R left on the bell.


For Windy, using a telescopic bore gauge and digital micrometer (both Harbor Freight, for what they're worth).
Top - .605",  1cm in - .605",  2cm in - .601",  3cm in - .599", bumping the vent tube - .598".
Bottom up.  .595" in to about 7cm.  that's as far as my bore gauge would reach.