Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
 

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - jdbassplayer

Pages: [1] 2
1
All about Clarinets / Re: Setting Up a Bundy Alto Instructions Needed
« on: June 28, 2021, 12:27:12 PM »
You need to go through all of the pads with a feeler gauge. A leak light can help but it won't tell you the whole story.

Here's how to make one, though I suggest using a plastic shopping bag instead of the tape as it will be more precise.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xg1DJhEBZEM

Some pads to pay close attention to are the Ab and the Ab/Eb keys, they are some of the harder ones to get level.

2
All about Clarinets / Re: About the alto
« on: May 29, 2021, 08:44:36 PM »
Not all altos, this is just a good example of what happens when a company gives up...

I'm sure if Selmer put the same attention into their clarinets that they do to their saxophones it would be a much better instrument.

3
All about Clarinets / Re: Interesting fault
« on: March 08, 2021, 01:44:22 PM »
Seems like a spring issue. One of your keys is opening slightly when you play causing the fluttering sound. Most likely this would be the F#/C# key but could be any key held down under spring tension. Try pushing the pad cup down somehow while playing and see if it goes away.

-Jdbassplayer

4
All about Clarinets / Re: NEWBIE REPAIR QUERY
« on: March 02, 2021, 06:19:59 PM »
Yamaha 26s are always 3/64” or under though. The only way the cork would need to be thicker is if someone shaved the plastic down, in which case OP should probably have the tenon replaced as now that would be a weak spot. But that’s a very unlikely situation.

If you have problems getting the right thickness I would highly recommend a good set of calipers. You can wrap the cork around the tenon and compress it a bit with the calipers to get a good estimate of what the compressed diameter will be. Using this method I’ve never had to replace a cork because I used the wrong size.

5
All about Clarinets / Re: NEWBIE REPAIR QUERY
« on: March 02, 2021, 07:11:54 AM »
I'll order the next size up, 1/16" thick instead of the 3/64 as mentioned above.
Cheers!

Why? That's just a waste of time and money...

6
All about Clarinets / Re: NEWBIE REPAIR QUERY
« on: February 23, 2021, 12:17:23 PM »
If your only goal is to save money it would be best to take it to a tech. The materials to replace one tenon cork cost more than having it done professionally. You need a bottle of contact cement, razor blades, a straightedge, some sandpaper and of course the cork. Yamaha cork is usually 3/64" or 1.2mm, but you may need to sand it thinner. The cheapest place to get good cork is probably Music Medic, but you need to spend $10 to get free shipping I think. Maybe you can also buy the contact cement there. At best if you already have sandpaper and razor blades you are only really saving maybe $10 or $15.

For a really cheap option you can use cotton thread like on a bassoon.

7
All about Clarinets / Re: Double boehm system
« on: February 19, 2021, 06:20:58 AM »
Let me clarify how the key work functions. The lower joint is standard Boehm system. The only difference is that there is no linkage to the upper joint as there is no need for an alternate Eb. For the upper joint, Eb is fingered xoo|ooo. E can either be fingered oxo|ooo or by playing an Eb and using the first trill key or the sliver key. F is normal but F# can either be played with the first or second finger.

The plate with the vent hole is there to help with the altissimo like on bass clarinet. This is needed because the first finger tone hole is now a semi tone lower, meaning it is less effective to just lift the index finger. The plate is connected to the third finger ring so it will close automatically when you play an altissimo note.

8
This is a great idea Windy! Does it work well on nickel plating?

9
All about Clarinets / Re: Buffet Eb Carl Fischer
« on: October 10, 2020, 08:01:05 PM »
Carl Fischer has been around since 1872, so 1896 is a perfectly reasonable date and I would see no reason to doubt it. Looks to be in very nice shape!

10
All about Clarinets / Re: Barely legable serial numbers
« on: October 05, 2020, 01:28:41 PM »
I'm confused why you would ever want to do that. I can understand doing it to the logo for cosmetic reasons but the only value the serial number has is determining age and possibly model. If you already know that information just disclose that to any future buyer and leave the serial number as it is. If you try to make it more readable you could also unintentionally make it look more fake, taking value away from the instrument.

11
Yeah it looks like someone was going to convert them to the normal configuration with a barrel but never did. I have an Eb I need to do that to as well. Just try the mouthpiece right in the upper joint and see how the intonation is.

12
> With the right equipment, a bass just might be possible.

A bass tarogato is definitely on my "to build" list, just need to find a cheap junk tenor sax for the keys! I've already made a keyless copy of my 1800s tarogato and was very happy with the results. 


13
All about Clarinets / Re: Help identifying a supposed 1800's clarinet
« on: June 29, 2020, 05:04:19 PM »
>Although he says at the beginning that everything on it was 3d printed, it's clear that the keys weren't.

Correct. I think I said it in the video, but just to clarify the keys (along with the posts and springs) are not 3D printed. Unfortunately while metal 3D printing has come a long way the technology is still too expensive. After speaking with a prototyping company I learned the cost would be about $500 per key, well above what a skilled tech would charge to make a key.

One promising technology is desktop CNC machining. CNC machining has been around for decades, however desktop sized machines capable of cutting German silver are becoming available. The Shapeoko 3 costs $1250 and works for this application. Of course you can only cut out flat pieces effectively so you still have to do a lot of soldering, but it does make building large amounts of keywork simpler. Making posts and screws are still best done on a lathe though.

14
My 2 attempts to tune Chinese Ebs have been met with failure. The problem is some toneholes would need to be enlarged so much that you would cut through the tonehole chimney. You would have to machine off a few of the old tonehole chimneys, replace the rings on some keys with larger ones and make a custom chimney. This is in addition to giving the instrument a full repad and overhaul. I've heard that the Grenadilla versions are better, but this is unconfirmed. Even so you would still need to level the toneholes. Given the trouble with rosewood in general, I would avoid them.

For Ebs, Bundys are the tired and true choice for a cheap instrument.

15
All about Clarinets / Re: new review: Cheap Chinese No-Name A clarinet
« on: March 29, 2020, 12:26:14 PM »
In my experience, The no-name A clarinets really need a new register vent in order to play correctly. Otherwise you will be fighting a loosing battle against wide 12ths. Fortunately, a very effective register tube can be made out of a Nylon 3/16" OD bushing cut down so that it is about 2mm longer than the stock vent. These are available at both major home improvement chains here in the US.

Pages: [1] 2