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All about Clarinets / Re: Repairing holes in the clarinet bodies
« Last post by Windsong on September 04, 2020, 05:35:12 PM »
This is great information, Gents.  Looking forward to trying out Starbond black rubberized CA.
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All about Clarinets / Re: Repairing holes in the clarinet bodies
« Last post by windydankoff on September 03, 2020, 05:33:41 PM »
For general use, I like the Locktite products (Home Depot and elsewhere) because they have a good applicator bottle that doesn't clog (much). They have both gel and liquid. I like having both.

The BEST type of glue for making extremely strong bond to wood is "thin". It flows so easily (like a solvent) that it's rather hazardous. Therefore, it's not sold at hardware stores. I have bought it at woodworking and jeweler's supply stores. Online sources too, of course. Starbond is one good brand.

For wood, I START with thin liquid. It soaks in and penetrates the finest hairline cracks (and continues out onto your hand -- watch out! Then I add something thicker. Thick or gel CA will always distort or shrink as it hardens. Epoxy will not shrink. Epoxy WILL adhere very well to hardened CA glue, so I sometimes prime the wood with CA, then fill with epoxy.

The Starbond black rubberized CA is harder to find. I got mine from Amazon, after reading this topic. Thanks Ken. I'll try it next for repairing a chipped mouthpiece.

Also note -- ANY brand of CA accelerator spray will work on ANY CA glue. You need it, or you will run into situations where the stuff just won't set up, especially when not in a confined space.
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All about Clarinets / Re: Arts and crafts projects
« Last post by GrumpyMiddleAgedMan on September 03, 2020, 02:43:08 AM »
I found a use for that barrel i made. It fit onto the PM artist i had and with the rubber B&H bell it is ugly as sin. But it plays really nice. Has good sound and is easy to play.
It really looks the Frankenstein part.  :o
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All about Clarinets / Re: Metal 4 piece
« Last post by GrumpyMiddleAgedMan on September 03, 2020, 02:34:59 AM »
Just for some background. I found this ad attached to one of those other clarinet sites. It seems that the original price on one of these adjusted for Inflation from 1927 to 2020 puts it in the 2k base range. I find that to be pretty steep although I see brand new custom horns going all the way out to 10k. That's a lot of pennies.
Still interesting in comparison to what you could buy now for the same amount. Almost seems like you get less.
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All about Clarinets / Re: Repairing holes in the clarinet bodies
« Last post by kewald on September 01, 2020, 02:30:21 PM »
I'm sure it's available anywhere glues are sold.  CA, or Cyanoacrylite glue is also known as Super Glue, Hot Stuff, and many other brands.  Also many varieties for specialized uses.
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All about Clarinets / Re: Repairing holes in the clarinet bodies
« Last post by philpedler on September 01, 2020, 02:00:52 PM »
Great information! Thanks, Ken.
Where can I get CA glue?
Is it available at Lowe's or auto supply stores?
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All about Clarinets / Re: Repairing holes in the clarinet bodies
« Last post by kewald on September 01, 2020, 12:15:26 PM »
Glad you are finding the stuff useful.  I tried JB Black Plastic Bonder on a mouthpiece several months ago and it simply wouldn't stick.  I haven't found anything this CA glue won't stick to.  Fingers, of course really are attracted to it!!!


I've used fast setting CA to stick two pieces of steel together while transfer punching from a hole in one to the mating location in the other.  Wiggled them apart, then drilled a perfectly mating hole.


The image: I've also CA glued two small pieces of 3/8 flat steel to each other to use as a bench anvil.  Didn't have any 3/4 so I used two small off cuts from another project.  So far, after several weeks, they are holding well.  It might even be fairly permanent, though certainly not as strong as mechanical fasteners.


Be careful, though, many years ago I was working on an RC model airplane without adequate air circulation and the fumes from CA glue bonded the eyelashes of one eye together.  The eventually came apart due to the natural oils in our skin and hairs.  I seem to recall that CA was developed to make temporary stitches during surgery.

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All about Clarinets / Re: Repairing holes in the clarinet bodies
« Last post by windydankoff on August 31, 2020, 05:57:54 PM »
Thanks Ken for informing me of this product a few weeks ago AND for your detailed report of a well-developed process. So, I bought a bottle ...

I was fine-tuning a hard rubber C clarinets for a client, undercutting a low tonehole, and I slipped with a spinning burr. It made a chip in the valve seat. I sprayed a whiff of conventional CA activator and as that evaporated, I applied a droplet of this black stuff. In minutes (if not seconds), it was hard. With a sharp knife, I carved away the excess. It felt hard-rubbery, not glassy-brittle like normal CA. I reamed the hole, wondering if that would force it off. It did not. Nobody (but you) will ever know this happened.

I could have used epoxy putty (JB Kwik) but this was instant, and already black.

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All about Clarinets / Repairing holes in the clarinet bodies
« Last post by kewald on August 31, 2020, 11:48:25 AM »
I've been using black rubberized CA glue to repair damaged holes in the body of both wood and hard rubber clarinets.  Here's the process:
  • Remove the post or screw from the body.
  • If the threads in the body are badly damaged, drilling out the hole may be needed.  Use a bit the same diameter as the threads on the post or screw.  Don't drill into the bore!  I use an old time hand cranked drill for better control.
  • Clean out the hole.  I blow out any debris with compressed air and use a small squirt of Acetone to remove any oily residue, especially from Grenadilla and similar hardwoods.  Doesn't hurt hard rubber either since it flashes off very quickly.
  • Clean the post or screw thoroughly.
  • Apply a light coating of petroleum jelly to the threads and any part that will touch the body.  Make it a light, but complete coating.
  • Apply a little black rubberized CA glue to the threads.  Use more if the hole threads are gone.
  • Screw or push the post or screw into the hole. 
  • For a post, carefully position it to line up correctly.  I reinstall the key to be sure, then tape the post into place to keep it from coming out.
  • Let it cure overnight.  I know CA cures fast, but with the rubber, I let it cure.
  • Unscrew from the body.  This may be difficult at first, but when it frees up it should screw out cleanly thanks to the resist added by the petroleum jelly.
Images:
The retaining screw won't screw out.
Screw out and Acetone in.
Tiny screw & washer.  I cleaned it with Acetone and brushed Vaseline on the threads and underside of the washer.
The glue I used.
the other steps took both hands and I didn't get photos.

Comments and ideas always welcome.


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Wrong sub forum, but thatís alright.

Like it says in the bell, itís a Pan-American which was a division of CG Conn, Ltd.

Itís more likely from the late 30s or 40s, but pictures will help.

Those faux-alligator skin cases were all the rage back then, but are rarely actual reptiles skin.
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